A Christmas cactus wants bright, indirect light, water when the top inch of soil is dry, and a well-draining mix. To make it bloom, give it about six weeks of cool nights (50–60°F) and long darkness (12–14 hours) starting in early fall. Avoid moving it once buds form, or they may drop.
Some houseplants are fashionable. The Christmas cactus is something better: a plant people keep for decades and pass down. Plenty of families have one that belonged to a grandmother, still covered in pink or red flowers every winter. It is pet-safe, forgiving, and one of the few plants that rewards a little neglect at exactly the right time.
Despite the name, it is not a desert cactus. It comes from the coastal mountain forests of Brazil, where it grows on tree branches in humid, dappled shade. Treat it like a forest plant rather than a cactus and it will thrive.
Christmas, Thanksgiving or Easter cactus?
Most plants sold as “Christmas cactus” in stores are actually Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which naturally blooms a few weeks earlier. You can tell them apart by the leaf segments:
- Thanksgiving cactus: pointed, claw-like teeth on the edges of each segment. Blooms from about November.
- Christmas cactus: rounded, scalloped edges. Blooms closer to December.
- Easter cactus: rounded, bristly segments and star-shaped flowers in spring. It is a different genus with slightly different needs.
The good news: care for Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti is the same.
- Light
- Bright, indirect
- Water
- When top inch is dry
- Temperature
- 60–70°F by day
- Humidity
- Average to high
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Pets
- Safe for cats & dogs
Light
Bright, indirect light is ideal: an east-facing window, or a few feet back from a south or west window. Strong afternoon sun can turn the segments red or bleached. Too little light means fewer flowers.
Water and soil
Water thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry, then let it drain completely. During active growth in spring and summer that might be weekly. After flowering, it rests for about a month and wants a little less.
Because it grows on trees in nature, a Christmas cactus needs loose, airy soil. A mix of two parts houseplant or succulent mix with one part orchid bark or perlite works well. It actually likes being slightly pot-bound, so repot only every three years or so, into a pot just one size bigger.
Soggy soil causes most deaths. Limp, wrinkled segments with wet soil mean root rot, not thirst. Let it dry out and check that the pot drains.
How to make a Christmas cactus bloom
This is the part people find mysterious, but it is simple. Flower buds form in response to cool nights and long nights. In nature, fall provides both. Indoors, central heating and evening lamps can confuse it.
Starting around mid-September to early October, for about six weeks:
- Keep nights cool, ideally 50 to 60°F (10 to 16°C). A cool spare room, an unheated porch that does not freeze, or a spot near (but not touching) a cold window works.
- Give it 12 to 14 hours of darkness each night. A room you do not use in the evenings, or a box over it overnight.
- Water a bit less than usual, just enough to stop the segments shriveling.
- Stop fertilizing.
Once you see small buds forming at the tips of the segments, bring it back to its normal spot and resume regular watering. Flowers usually open three to six weeks later.
Cool nights alone often do the trick. At around 50 to 55°F, most plants set buds even without perfect darkness. Many people find their plant blooms beautifully simply by living in a cool, little-used room in the fall.
Why are the buds dropping?
Bud drop is frustrating, and almost always caused by a sudden change:
- Moving the plant once buds have formed (even turning it around)
- A blast of hot air from a heater or a cold draft from a door
- Soil that was allowed to go bone dry, or kept soggy
- Very low humidity
Pick a good spot before buds form, then leave it there until flowering is over.
Care after flowering
After the last flowers fade, let the plant rest for about six weeks with a little less water. In spring, pinch or twist off a segment or two at the tips of each stem to make it bushier. You can feed every two to four weeks from spring to late summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at half strength.
The pieces you pinch off root easily: let them dry for a day, then push them half an inch into moist mix. In a few weeks you have new plants to give away.
Christmas cactus essentials
Prices change often, so check the store for today's price.Christmas or Thanksgiving cactus in bloom
A budded plant is one of the best holiday gifts you can give: cheerful, pet-safe, inexpensive and able to live for decades.
- Safe for cats and dogs
- Blooms year after year
- Easy to propagate and share
- Downside: Buds can drop if it is moved a lot right after purchase
How to use it: Choose one with plenty of closed buds, set it in bright indirect light, and keep it in the same spot until the flowers finish.
Succulent and cactus potting mix
A fast-draining base that, mixed with some orchid bark, gives Christmas cactus the airy soil it needs to avoid root rot.
- Drains quickly
- Ready to use
- Good for other succulents too
- Downside: Add bark or perlite for best results with Christmas cactus
How to use it: Mix two parts succulent mix with one part orchid bark and repot only when it has been in the same pot for about three years.
FAQ
Is Christmas cactus safe for cats and dogs?
Yes. The ASPCA lists Christmas cactus as non-toxic to cats and dogs, which makes it one of the best holiday plants for pet owners.
Why are the leaves of my Christmas cactus turning red or purple?
Usually too much direct sun, cold, or drought stress. Move it to softer light and check your watering.
How long does a Christmas cactus live?
Decades. With good care they can easily outlive their owners, which is why so many are family heirlooms.
Can a Christmas cactus bloom twice a year?
Sometimes. Healthy plants occasionally rebloom in spring if conditions are cool with long nights again.
